In our first class, we will take a test and go on a field trip to the fabric store where you can purchase fabric patterns and notions. If you are on a budget, I have several patterns available for you to choose from. Most are women's garments, but I do have a few male patterns as well. If any of you boys want to make a garment for someone other than yourself, please call me or email me asap and I will let you know what info you need for the field.
I also urge you to go to Mccalls website which has Mccalls, Butterick, and Vogue patterns, all of which are available at the fabric store we are going to. Simpicity has SImplicity and New Look patterns, which will be your other options. Don't look at the fabric in the pattern photos, that can sway you away from a lovely shaped garment. I think midwestern housewives are in charge at all these companies.
There is a lot of basic sewing terminology that I would like you to try to familiarize yourself with before class begins. I will give a test at the first class so I can see how well you can study and/or how far your basic knowledge goes. This is what I want you to begin studying. You don't have to memorize it all, just get familiar with it. Print this post out and you will have a good basic glossary of terms. My next post will be about the actual sewing machine.
Glossary of Basic Sewing Terms:
ARMSCYE
Another word used for Armhole.
BACKSTITCH
Backstitch is used both at the beginning and at the end of a row of stitching to anchor the thread. This involves running the sewing needle back and forth a few times to reinforce the stitches so that they do not come loose.
BASTING
The use of temporary stitches to hold your work in place until the permanent stitching is completed. These are usually large long stitches and are removed when the project is complete.
BIAS
A diagonal line that runs across the fabric. This is the stretchiest area of the fabric.
BIAS BINDING/TAPE
Strips of fabric that are cut on the bias, turned under, pressed and is most often used to finish an edge of an armhole, neck, or hem of a garment and stretches easily to accommodate curves.
BINDING
A method used to neaten a raw edge of material using a separate length of fabric. This is commonly done in the manufacture of blankets and quilts. The term not only refers to the method itself but can also refer to the piece of fabric that is used to encase the raw edged material.
BOBBIN
This is the section of your sewing machine that holds the bottom thread, otherwise known as the bobbin thread, before being placed in the bobbin case (usually located underneath where the needle penetrates the fabric). The bobbin thread then loops in with the needle thread forming a locked stitch.
BODICE
The section of a garment (or pattern) that runs all the way from the top of the shoulder down to the waist.
CLIP CURVES
Clipping curves is done in order for a rounded corner to lay flat and not bunch up when a garment is completed. Outside curves need to be cut very close to the seam whereas inside curves can have small v-shaped notches cut out as an alternative to clipping. You do not need to bother with this method of clipping curves if you use a serger to finish off your seams.
CUTTING LINE
This is the outermost dark line found on a paper pattern. You can either cut directly on the line or just outside of it but always remain consistent with your cutting method.
DART
Darts are V-shaped adjustments to a pattern that allow for extra fullness in a garment (for example in the bust area of a top) or alternatively for less fullness (for eg in the waist or back area).
EASE
A sewing technique used when you are attempting to make one piece of fabric fit onto another by pulling in the extra fabric, whilst avoiding puckering or gathering. This technique allows for a proper fit and better movement in a garment.
FACING
A fabric piece which is sewn into the cuffs, collar, front opening, or arms eye of a hem to give a finished effect.
FINISH (AN EDGE)
Turn under 1/4" of fabric and stitch, or serge the edge. Doing either of these finishes will stop the fabric from ravelling.
FOLD LINE
This is the fold of a fabric (off the bolt) that you lay a pattern piece up against in order to avoid a seam running down the centre of your garment.
GATHERING
Gathering enables a longer piece of fabric to be sewn onto a shorter piece of fabric. It is also a method used to ease a seam, allowing the insertion of sleeves and other rounded pieces of a pattern. It creates fullness by pulling fabric together.
GIVE
This term is used to describe the elasticity of a fabric or garment eg. this garment has a lot of "give" (ie it has a lot of stretch).
GRAIN
The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage.
HEM
The area of fabric that is turned up and stitched on the lower section of a garment, allowing a clean finished edge. Hemming can be performed to shorten pants that are too long or alternatively the hem can be lowered to allow more room for growth in childrens clothing.
INSEAM
The seam that runs along the inside leg of pants, from the crotch to the hem.
INTERFACING
This fabric is inserted between layers of the garment to give stability and form to collars, cuffs, and some waistbands. It can be sewn in, or alternatively, it can be fusible (iron-on adhesive).
INTERLINING
A soft fabric that is placed between the lining and the face fabric to help insulate.
LINING
A lining is used on the inside of a garment (for eg jackets and coats) to hide the inside construction and seams, and also to give a decorative effect. Usually lining is made of a silky type fabric to make the garment easier to put on.
MITERING
A method of folding the excess seam allowance to gain a sharper and less bulky corner. Often used for quilt corners, vests, jackets and occassionally on collars.
MUSLIN
A cloth used for making sheets. It has a thread count under 180 threads per inch. More loosely woven and coarser than percale. It is generally inexpensive and therefore often used to make trial garments before a more expensive fabric is used.
NAP
A one-way textural direction of a fabric, such as velvet or corduroy. When using these types of "fuzzy" fabrics with a nap all pieces must be cut with the nap running in the same direction.
NOTCH
This small cut in the seam allowance allows fabric to bend at corners and curves. On a paper pattern it is shown as a dark coloured diamond.
NOTION
Notions are items (apart from a sewing machine and fabric) that are used for sewing. Also called findings and sundries.
OVERCAST/OVERSTITCH
This form of stitching is done to prevent a seam from ravelling.
PATTERN LAYOUT
These are directions for the way you should lay out a pattern.
PILE
This word is used to describe the nap of the fabric. Corduroy and velvet are examples of fabric in which the pile needs to be laid in the natural direction when being cut for a pattern. The fabric appears a different colour when brushed in one direction.
PINKING SHEARS
These are a type of shear with a "vvvvw" shape along the cutting edge. Using these shears instead of normal straight edged fabric shears will lessen the fabric ravelling. They can also be used for a decorative effect.
PLEAT
A fabric fold that is only sewn at the top edge on a garment such as a skirt or slacks. The fold is formed outwards or inverted.
PRE-SHRINKING (also referred to as pre-washing)
This term refers to laundering the fabric before you mark and cut out your pattern, so that the fabric shrinks to its ultimate size and shape before you work with it. Pre-shrinking really only needs to be done with a fabric that is going to be worn and washed ie not necessary for a craft project that is not going to be laundered. Do not pre-shrink 'dryclean only' fabric.
PRESS
Pressing is different to ironing. Pressing is the action of using a hot iron in a press/pick up/move/press/pick up/move action. Do not use a back and forth motion as you would when you "iron". Pressing is usually done in the creation of a garment.
REINFORCE (SEAM)
To effectively reinforce a seam you need to sew very close next to it, but not on top of the seam. You could also use bias tape to reinforce a seam. A typical area of a garment that needs to be reinforced is the crotch seam.
RIGHT SIDE
The right side of the fabric is the side with the pattern or design.
SALVAGEThe woven outside edge of fabric which is unable to fray. This can have color matching dots or manufacturer information printed on it. Also referred to as selvedge.
SEAM ALLOWANCE
The amount of extra fabric added to allow for a seam. This is the area between the cut edge and the seam stitching. When sewing from a pattern, the seam allowance is always 5/8 in. unless otherwise specified.
STAY-STITCH
This stitching is applied about 1/8" inside the permanent line of stitching on a curved edge in order to keep it from distorting. Refer to the pattern to establish the direction of the stitching.
STITCH IN THE DITCH
This is a type of under-stitching. To perform successfully, press the seam allowances to one side and top stitch as close as possible to the seam. This will hold the seam allowance down and keep the piece of fabric folded under.
TACK/TACKING
Tacking is applying temporary stitching to hold material pieces together until the final stitching is completed.
UNDER-STITCHING
This form of stitching is applied as close to the seam line as possible to enable a piece of fabric to stay folded under. See "Stitch in the Ditch."
WRONG SIDE
The wrong side of a fabric is the one where there is no design or pattern.
ZIG ZAG
Zig zag is a type of stitch that goes sideways one direction, and then the other. It can be used to prevent a seam from ravelling. It can also be used decoratively.
GLossary of Fabrics:
acetate - A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acetic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.
brocade - A heavy, exquisite, jacquard-type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design.
canvas - A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric.
cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1-1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.
crepe - Used to describe all kinds of fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface.
denim - True denim is a twill-weave, cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.
dupioni - Similar to shantung, this textured fabric is recognized by irregular-sized, thick fibers woven into the base fabric. Fibers that create the texture, are thicker and heavier than those used in shantung.
flannel - A warm, soft fabric made in tightly woven twill or plain weave and finished with a light napping.
fleece - A soft, bulky, deep-piled knitted or woven fabric.
gabardine - A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting.
jersey - The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
knit - Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.
leather - Animal skin dressed for use in clothing.
linen - A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.
lycra - A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won't wash away.
nylon - The first completely synthetic fiber developed. Known for its high strength and excellent resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility.
polyester - A manufactured fiber which has high strength, excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.
poplin - A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling.
rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter.
satin - A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and royal satin.
seersucker - A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric.
silk - It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the finest textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.
spandex - A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.
suede - Leather with a napped surface.
taffeta - A lustrous, medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.
terry - A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.
twill - A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face (e.g., denim, gabardine, tricotine).
velvet - A medium-weight, cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.
viscose - The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.
voile - A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza.
wool - Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lambs. However, the term "wool" can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.
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